Picture this: it’s Monday morning and you’ve just taken your second sip of coffee. An email from your boss arrives. You have 2 extra days off this December, because of your hard work last year.

Thrilled, you decide to go somewhere you’ve never been before while keeping it European and festive. After a little research on what the best Christmas markets in Europe are, Zagreb comes up.

With its convenient location in the heart of Europe and this year’s Nutcracker theme, it’s just right. From the 30th of November 2019 until the 7th of January 2020, the place to be is in the center of this wonderful city.

Start here

On the main square (Trg bana Jelačića) the dazzling lights play around the wooden stands filled with handcrafted gifts and souvenirs.

The inviting smells of ginger, spice and everything nice lead to heartwarming meals and decadent drinks. ‘Sarma’ is a popular dish made with cabbage leaves rolled around a filling of minced meat and rice and can be enjoyed warm or cold. Mulled wine with a lovely cinnamon smell tastes so comforting, it’s impossible not to share a few with friends.

The European square, nestled just between the Cathedral and the main square, focuses on bringing an urban flavor to the market. All the creatives gather here to enjoy a concert, an exhibition or a film. The gastronomy tends to be more international – the Italian corner with their nougaty sweets is not to be missed.

Worth the climb

To walk the calories off, the best thing to do is to go up the cobblestoned streets towards the romantic hills of the old town. Klovićevi Dvori is a well-known art gallery, which during Advent turns into a stage for musicians, performers, as well as foodies. It seems like there is always some new delicacy to try, whether it is a glass of warm gin or a cheesy Bosnian pastry.

This vibe continues with a stroll along the Strossmayer Promenade, full of decorations that instantly take you back in the time of Croatia’s beloved modernist writer, A. G. Matoš. You can grab a seat at his desk featuring a typewriter, if only just for a photo. The scene is complete with vintage bikes and French windows, open to creating the best memories.

The view overlooking the Lower Town’s little red roofs with the neo-gothic towers of the Cathedral in the background is the perfect holiday card setting. The sounds of nostalgic oldies music set the right tone for another charming evening in Zagreb. It isn’t hard to imagine how it must have been like to be a ‘purger’ all those years ago, walking around Upper town with that special someone.

Plenty of choices

Steps are out, hidden tunnels are in! The area around Mesnička street has been transformed into a world of endless Nutcrackers, snow and pine trees. A small network of tunnels leads you to the largest one, located just next to the city’s funicular. From the ceiling of the Grič tunnel hang all sorts of toys, bringing joy to both kids and kids at heart.

Taking a walk through the park Zrinjevac will probably take a lot longer than the usual 10 minutes – because of all the interesting things you’ll see. Zagreb’s finest artists display their best stuff all over the park, making sure everyone finds something they’re into. From handmade organic soaps that smell like grandma’s cookies (yes, they do) to eccentric earrings that resemble boats.

No inspiration for a last-minute gift? No problem. With a bottle of fruity ‘rakija’ or some first-class olive oil, you can never go wrong. Just ask one of the welcoming stand owners to help you out, because the choices are overwhelming.

The full gourmet experience

Straight ahead, a world of ‘fuliranje’ or fooling around awaits. It can be best described as a myriad of colors, flavors, and sounds, that all work together to create an unforgettable experience. The stands here are divided regionally and thematically around the center stage, which hosts many famous DJs, bands and other acts.

If you haven’t been to the Croatian coast yet, here’s a great gastronomic introduction. The Istrian corner features some of the region’s finest dishes presented with a modern twist. The ‘boškarin’ sandwich is a delicious example of this, with its star ingredient: white ox meat, which is grilled and served with onion compote and fresh sheep cheese.

Dalmatia’s cuisine is represented by a holiday classic, ‘pašticada’, meaning extra-tender beef cooked in a dark, fragrant sauce with notes of red wine, figs, and pancetta. No meal is complete without a good dessert. ‘Fritule’ are similar to little doughnuts, this sweet dough is eaten sprinkled with powdered sugar or drowned in chocolate.

Some nice extras

For a bit of recreation, there is the Ice Park, located at the heart of Zagreb Christmas market, King Tomislav’s square. Rent some skates and take a spin around the park to feel that winter is here. Sway to the rhythm of the music beneath the fairy lights and set your inner figure skater free.

The architectural masterpiece, Croatian National Theatre (also known as ‘HNK’), opens its doors to even more performances than usual. Have a cup of nice warm tea while listening to jazz, soul and classical music in a historic environment.

Movie lovers will be thrilled with the Film Advent at Tuškanac. Every evening, there is a holiday-themed movie for different age groups. After stepping out of the old-school cinema, take a walk through the park, something magical just might be around the corner.

See you next year

Zagreb Advent offers a complete socio-cultural experience, with a focus on the gastronomy. There is plenty here for everybody to enjoy, from concerts and shows to gift shopping and ice skating. Christmas markets in Europe will never be the same after you fall in love with this one’s charm.