Corona or no corona, summer is here. If you are among the lucky ones that can take a holiday in Europe and you are looking for something different, read on.
Exploring the Adriatic coast feels like a good idea, but you are not sure where to start? Here is something you should consider before booking that much-needed holiday.
Istria is the largest peninsula in the Adriatic Sea, located between Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy. It is overflowing with culture, heritage, and many hidden gems. From the smallest city in the world to mysterious islands, there is something for everyone.
One of these is the city of Bale or Valle in Italian. It’s nestled between Rovinj and Pula, on a hilltop overlooking the heart of Istria.
Its charm lies in its stoned walls, friendly residents, and Istrian die-for gastronomy. Let’s dive in deeper to find out what are the other reasons to visit.
1. So. Much. History.
Much like entire Istria, the city of Bale has seen its fair share of political and cultural changes.
The hills surrounding the city are the best spot for a fortress, which was built during pre-Roman times. The Romans turned it into ‘castrum vallis’, and its purpose was to protect the path to Pula, as well as ancient salt mines. The medieval city was later built upon the remains.
Italy had a lot of influence in entire Istria, which can be seen on every corner. It almost feels as if you’re in Italy, yet with a very special twist. Southeast Europe meets the easygoing Mediterranean lifestyle.
The best example of the city’s rich history is the Church of Saint Julius. This is the fifth church built in the same spot – the original 9th century basilica can still be seen from the inside.
The castle that dominates today’s city center – Bembo-Soardo Citadel – will bring you back in time with its Gothic-Renaissance façade. Art lovers will enjoy the contemporary exhibition, as well as the renovated interior. The entire ceiling inside the main salon had been taken down and reconstructed to make it as vibrant as it was centuries ago.
Just taking a walk along the city’s narrow cobblestoned streets will have you imagining its vivid past. If only these stones could talk…
2. The City as A Hotel Concept
The one thing that stayed with me the most from my memory of my trip to Bale (besides its loveliness) is this brilliant idea. Tired of waiting to be included in the plans of others, Bale’s residents decided to take things into their own hands. About 15 years ago, they formed an association called Mon Perin.
With a focus on sustainability and social equity, every member of the association is also a shareholder. Together, they invest in the development of their city’s tourist, economic, and cultural needs.
This is how they have created the scheme of having the entire city that functions as a hotel. The apartments the residents rent out to tourists are the hotel suites, whereas the city’s restaurants and taverns are the spacious dining halls. The ‘front desk’ is the citadel, and the hotel’s facilities stretch out 6 kilometers to the coast.
For those seeking a more secluded, nature-embraced environment, there are other choices. Stancije are agricultural estates, where the landlords used to live. They are surrounded by fields, forests and olive groves which stretch out for miles.
The Mon Perin camp provides a unique camping experience, whether you came with a camper or not. With 9.5 km of untouched coastline, there’s no way you won’t find your spot on the beach. Get to know the Adriatic Sea in its truest form.
3. The gastronomic delights
If you’ve never been to Istria and you love food, try to prepare yourself. It will be one of the finest gastronomical experiences of your life. Yes, I dare go that far. Yes, the food is that amazing.
Think fresh tomatoes, heavenly olive oil, sheep cheeses that ‘squeak’ in your mouth – for starters. Then comes the homemade pasta. Paired with fragrant, dark, thick sauces that accompany the meat/fish of your choosing.
The most unique choice you can make is going for the boškarin. These long-horned cattle have been inhabiting the peninsula since Roman times. Istria’s signature animal was almost extinct a few decades ago, which was luckily prevented. Its meat is now considered one of the most prestigious gourmet meals in Croatia.
Now let’s talk wine. As a Croatian, I am all too familiar with the competition between many different sorts of wines my country abounds in. All of them are amazing. Istria’s wines leave a special taste in your mouth (and memory), due to the red soil it grows on, better known as terra rossa.
Try the classic white malvazija or go for the deep burgundy teran and pair them with fresh cheeses, which Bale is famous for. Remind yourself what real enjoyment feels like.
4. Even Casanova Roamed These Streets
When talking about history’s great lovers, Casanova’s name comes up a lot. The priest-turned-aristocrat spent most of his time in Venice, where he was born. His love affairs were too much for the 18th century Italian society, so they evicted him out of the country.
Casanova found his comfort in Istria, spending a few years in romantic Bale. A legend says he was even involved with the lady who then owned the Bembo-Soardo palace.
After a lifetime of loving, he shared his experiences in writing and published a book – “The History of My Life”. His stories are the inspiration for many books, movies, and even a little festival in Vrsar called Casanovafest.
5. All that jazz
Another cultural gem that awaits you here is the jazz tavern ‘Kamene Priče’ (loosely translated as ‘Stories in Stone’).
The city is home of many artists, musicians, and creatives, and a lot of them gather here to celebrate the musical rhapsody we call jazz. This is not all. There’s art everywhere you look and books waiting to be read. Inviting scents of freshly cooked traditional food are impossible to resist. A delight for all the senses.
The tavern’s enchanting courtyard is also used as a stage for various theatre pieces. The most exciting setting happens in August when the Last Minute Jazz Festival takes place.
6. Nature’s Abundance Within Reach
Beautiful scenery is something you will almost get used to once you enter Istria. Besides the deep blue sea and vineyards everywhere you look, there are some special places well worth the visit.
The Brijuni National Park is a group of islands north of Pula. Among other things, you can see a zoo, remains of a Roman villa and a 2000-year old olive tree. The main island used to be the residence of Tito, former Yugoslavia’s president, who was passionate about the wildlife. He created the zoo and after his death, the animals stayed on the island, wandering freely around.
Lim Bay belongs to the 35 km long Lim Valley, which travels deep into the heart of the peninsula. The shades of green give a wonderful contrast when combined with the blueness of the sea. Hiking, diving, and climbing are highly encouraged in this area. Don’t miss watching the sunset here – it is spectacular.
7. Digging Even Deeper
Last but not least, Bale boasts with 2 fascinating exhibitions. These are the Paleontological and Ornithological exhibition in the Ulika gallery.
Having already mentioned the city stems from the pre-Roman era, it is no wonder it is filled with various archaeological remains. Dinosaurs roamed these areas – the bones of one of the largest dinosaurs in the world, brachiosaurus, have been found at the bottom of the sea close to Bale.
The wonderful nature here is home to many different birds unique to Istria. To get a closer look at them, head to the Ulika gallery. You will be able to hear them sing too, making the experience feel more personal.
Did you know that Bale County is also known as the County of Butterflies? More than 390 species of butterflies live in this area and you can’t see most of them anywhere else. Make sure to bring your camera while exploring, so you can capture a bit of their magic for yourself.
Depart But Come Back For More
If you have always wanted to try out the laidback Mediterranean lifestyle, look no further. The Istrian Peninsula is full of cultural and natural riches, with so much variety it is hard to make the right choice. The larger coastal cities and smaller villages all have their certain charm. Their uniqueness is what makes them so appealing.
Bale-Valle is one of the most interesting hilltop cities in Istria, yet still feels undiscovered. Take in its romantic scenery only once, and you will stay enchanted. Until the next time when you get to relive it all over again.
Cultourist 
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